Monday, September 29, 2008

Shooting Buffalo

At the wedding last weekend when we'd talk about our trip, people kept asking Emily and me why we wanted to go to Buffalo (and to Cleveland, where we're going today).

Number one, why not? I will happily go anywhere. There are interesting things to see in almost every wide spot in the road. Second, Buffalo is not just anywhere. It was burned to the ground in the war of 1812, and spent the next several decades building back up, hitting a massive boom around the turn of the century, when the Erie Canal brought shipping business and loads of cash to the region. Louis Sullivan, the Saarinens, HH Richardson—there's a ton of interesting architecture here. Also, Buffalo 66 was made in Buffalo.

Frank Lloyd Wright's Darwin Martin House. (There are a bunch of his houses up here but this is the only one we had time to see.)

The decline of a boomtown, while very sad, is at least as visually interesting as its rise.

Downtown is full of nice buildings, though they're almost all empty.

Cities like Buffalo always have some cool old bars.

Kazimierz Pulaski gets his props in Buffalo too.

The waterfront park is really nice. There's a gigantic view across Lake Erie toward Canada.

The Seneca were the first people here, and then the Iroquois as a whole, and then the French.

The grain elevator was invented at the Erie Basin.

The observation tower at the marina.

There's a military museum on the waterfront.

Does that lightning bolt really seem dangerous?

Finally: Buffalo Wings were invented here, at the Anchor Bar, by an Italian lady in 1964. We decided that their bleu cheese could have used more chunks, but that the wings were the best either of us had ever had. They're just extra meaty and cooked to perfection. The "suicidal" wings are extremely hot but don't lose any flavor. Highly recommended if you're ever in Buffalo.

Next up: Cleveland. Get ready to live.

In the Woods

I realize I'm more than a week late on this, but I'm on the road, and this sleepless early morning in a Syracuse Motel 6 is the first chance I've had to post anything not trip-related.

I've been wanting to see a fashion story in Olympic National Park forever, so imagine my delight in opening last Sunday's paper to find Raymond Meier's photographs in the fall travel issue of T, The New York Times Style Magazine. Actually it was more like delight mixed with jealous rage, because someone got to do that story and it wasn't me. No matter, the images are so amazing, I got over it very quickly.

Read the article and see more images at the T website.

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Vermont to New York over Lake Champlain

Night Flight

After Maya and Alex's wedding and reception, everyone went to a bar in Killington for pizza and beer.

Alex's mom Dot brought these mini candle-powered hot air balloons over from England. Basically you light the candle, hold onto the balloon, and wait for it to inflate.

At the right moment, you let go, and they drift slowly upward.

They get up really far before they burn out. I was kind of worried about sending a ball of fire over the national forest. In fact, I kind of had reservations about the whole thing. But it had just rained and was wet enough not to be a fire hazard, and apparently they're bio-degradable, so when the remnants fall to earth, they (hopefully) don't muck up the place too much or for very long. They let off a really warm light and floated quietly away—a great end to the night.

Saturday, September 27, 2008

Vermont

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The color is beautiful up here and everything is so perfect, I feel like we're staying inside a train set. Maya and Alex's wedding is today on this big farm near Rochester, and tomorrow we head for central New York.

Thursday, September 25, 2008

One More Weekend

We didn't have much free time during our quick trip back to New York – mostly running errands and tying up loose ends.

Doesn't really make for great blog posting.

We did however have a chance to stop by the Museum at F.I.T., for a run through its excellent current exhibit, Gothic: Dark Glamour.

Alexander McQueen, Fall 2007. Not surprisingly, there was a bunch of McQueen.

Rodarte, Fall 2008. The Mulleavy sisters were inspired by Japanese horror movies and wanted the red chiffon in this dress to look like blood in water.

There aren't that many images on the web and no photos are allowed in the gallery – but I recommend checking out the show if you can. It's up through early February at F.I.T.

Also on view is Arbiters of Style: Women at the Forefront of Fashion. (Seems like that should go without saying, but no matter.) It's worth a look as well.

Photography Louise Dahl-Wolfe (1895-1989)
Diana Vreeland wearing a suit from Henri Bendel, on a deserted movie lot in Phoenix, Arizona
Harper’s Bazaar, January 1942

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Dispatch from the road

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Yes, I'm still alive, thanks for asking. The past ten days have been a blur, starting with my brother and I driving the Penske cross-country in three days flat. It wasn't a sightseeing trip but here are some random pictures.

Littlejeans could not have been better—a natural trucker. We were like BJ McKay and his best friend Bear.

This is literally the only tourist attraction we saw, and only because we needed diesel and it wasn't far from the freeway. I was a bit disappointed to find that the building is not actually made of corn, it just has a bunch of corn on the front of it. I guess maybe it would be a little impractical to make a building out of corn though.

Obscene hand gestures from midwestern youngsters.

That's Toledo in the distance.

Littlejeans drinking water on the side of the road during a coffee break in South Dakota.

The sun was going down as we crossed through Idaho and into Washington. It was a fitting end to our high-speed epic.

Once we got to Seattle, we unloaded all our stuff, returned the truck, and flew back to the East Coast. Emily and I are off to a wedding in beautiful Vermont, and then we'll take three weeks for a more leisurely drive across this great land, nowhere near the interstate.